Plumbing Repair - Plumbing Questions
1.40 Are plumbing leaks after foundation repair common?

Q. When I bought this house a few years ago there was small crack in the concrete slab- the home inspector and contractors couldn't tell if it was a shrinkage crack or result of settling(very common in the area I live in). The previous owners ended up putting some underpinning piles under one corner of the house. I think when that corner was lifted the drains connecting to the shower and tub (the bathroom is at the same corner) were misaligned, because we started having problems with the flooring coming up and carpet stains. Now I have to redo a lot of the plumbing and the doors won't shut properly. I read the foundation repair contract and it says they are not responsible for plumbing issues that arise after underpinnings are placed. Should everyone who had underpinnings put in have an inspector come in and look at all the plumbing again to make sure there are no new leaks because of the movement?? Is this normal? Is this common?

A. Wow, that is not good. I worked as a service plumber doing insurance claims where houses moved and there should always be a drain test, called a hydrostat test, done before and after the foundation repair. I would go to the previous homeowners to see if they had a hydrostat done after the foundation was lifted. if they had a test and have the paperwork that could save you lots of grief. Otherwise it may take an attorney and there are no guarantees because their warranty does plainly state that about the plumbing. Some companies do that as part of their standard procedures, some do not. Hopefully the previous had that test done, I know many insurance require a hydrostat test after a foundation repair as part of the claim. Start there and then maybe an attorney but there may not be alot of recourse. Best of luck.

1.20 Plumbing repair for gas riser - plumber caused additional leaks?

Q. This was my question 5 months ago. What I have found out since is below: We had a gas leak at our outside riser. A plumber said he'd fix it. After he fixed it - he said there was another leak - I didn't see or smell it - at the other riser - but let him replace it (my mistake for not testing it myself) - he then called for the city inspector and left. the city came along and asked the interior be checked on a tag they left. Upon returning, checking the interior, the plumber said that he thought there was a itty bitty leak in the house - but he didn't shut the house off from his exterior work - he tested the entire line. He couldn't find a leak in the interior after 2 hours (I should have checked the risers myself) so he came back the next day with a huge air compressor - used a 100 psi and guess what? Not only did he now find 18 leaks in the attic (every joint was blown) he blew the two risers he'd just replaced outside too. If all the cities recommend 10 - 15 psi - 100 psi is way to high for jointed house lines and yeah - you'll find the leak and a bunch of new ones you just caused from blowing every joint on the line. The city inspector also said this was way too much pressure. According to the state plumbing board of examiners and countless municipalities, 3 psi holding for 15 minutes is the standard testing pressure. Natural gas comes into a residence at ounces 5 oz. in our area - not pounds. For a bubble test the less pressure the better. Imagine the little bubbles you get your kids - if you blow as hard as you can you won't get a bubble - if you blow softly you do. Soap testing is outdated anyway. The dope used in the joints of natural gas lines can blow out even at 50 psi - which ours held at 50. This plumber’s own work was ruined by his 50 psi and 85 to 100 psi testing. Welded gas pipe is tested at 60 psi. Using anything over 10 psi for testing residential doped joints - especially a bubble test in just flat out crazy. If the gas comes in at 5 ounces it is beyond irresponsible to use 50 psi or more and plumbers find leaks alright - because they cause them. These are not water pipe joints - they are gas pipe joints and the pipe itself did not leak. The plumbing examiner’s board cited them for causing all of our damage - so I guess 50 and 100 psi is too much according to them. Just an FYI for anyone with natural gas pipes!!

A. First off gas pressure at the main will be 60 psi, after the regulator it will drop down to about 1 psi inside your house. if you tested at 10 psi that would be enough pressure to check for leaks. if you have black pipe, which is what is commonly used for interior pipes, it should have been able to hold up to the 100psi with no problem

1.20 Water runs down lawn from where new line and fitting were made during plumbing repair.?

Q. Plumber tried a patch job with the old pipe, then came back and up to a point replaced the pipe which is about 6 to 8 ft from concrete in front of house. When he returned and saw the trench had filled up with water, he said it was not his fault that its the old pipe, but I don't understand why right at the joint of the new repair and old pipe is leaking. Each time he has repaired the pipe water my rug in the living room has gotten very wet for weeks at a time.

A. If your rug is getting wet when the pipe leading into the house was cut, the vibration has caused a leak, i would suggest replacing pipe into house as well

1.20 Possibly tricky situation with plumbing repair?

Q. I hired a handyman plumber to fix a ceiling leak. He fixed it, and patched the hole made to detect the leak. However, about 10 days later, another leak was detected near the repair spot. The handyman came by and made another hole and told me he could not find where another leak is so he left the hole unpatched asking me to keep an eye, and call him when I detect the leak. Since, he made a "verbal" warranty over his labor, he knows that he's not getting paid for this, so he's very reluctant in returning my call and most times he doesn't answer. I paid him $1000 for the initial repair. He has agreed to come by one more time, and he says if he doesn't see the leak, then there's nothing he can do and he's out of the situation. I intend to take a picture when I find the leak. Now, I can think of two possible explanation for this 2nd leak that happened after the repair of 1st leak. 1) He damaged something near the repair spot 2) He did not detect the another source of leak when he made the initial repair. He's not a State license plumber even though he says he is. My question: if he does not fix the 2nd repair to my satisfaction, what recourse do I have? What would be a best thing to do to get it fixed to my satisfaction or to get $1000 back? I have detected where the 2nd leak is, but he will believe only if he can see it with his eyes. (This 2nd leak had cracked the ceiling in the 1st place which is why he made 2nd hole in the ceiling) 2nd leak is on a "different" nearby pipe.

A. A grand is very expensive!!! Especially considering he is not licensed contractor. I own a Handyman business in the SF Bay Area (very pricey) And I can get a journeyman licensed plumber to cut you pipe and solder in a new pipe along with drywall and paint for half of that. That said if the second leak is in the sidewall of the pipe and not at a close soldered joint, it is probably not his fault. It would seem that the original builder used a bad piece of copper. At least he came out and made a new hole and if he can't see the problem how can he possibly fix it? If the second leak is on the side of the same pipe, rip the whole section before leak #3 comes along. Good Luck!! Mark

1.20 Cracked concrete foundation after a plumbing repair?

Q. I live in an apartment. I've had a water leak in the kitchen for three months, under a cupboard and coming out outside by the front door. Last weekend it started backing up in my sink. Yesterday and today the maintenance men spent hours using an augur and chemicals trying to clear the clog that was causing the backup. They finished today about 6 pm. I went in the kitchen just now and there's space between the vinyl floor tiles that wasn't there earlier today, not all over the kitchen floor but just in a line starting from the spot where they were working. It's a noticeable space, enough that you can feel it when you walk on it. Is it possible that they cracked the foundation, and if it is, could it cause any major problems in the next three months? It's a concrete slab foundation and I'm on the ground floor of a two story building. The building already has foundation problems...cracked walls, doors not closing properly, etc... I'm moving in three months, it would just be nice to know the place wasn't going to totally fall apart before I can move out.

A. If you're moving in three months, or even longer for that matter, you really don't have anything that will jeopardize your health or safety. Slabs will tend to crack from time to time...Just as long as the floor doesn't open up, God Forbid, then you'll be ok...Take care....

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Plumbing Repair

 Plumbing - Plumbing Repair Most people don't think of plumbing repairs, until they are right in the middle of a leaky toilet or clogged sink scenario, and need emergency help quickly. A reliable plumber is the only one you can trust to perform permanent repairs of your toilet, sink, tub or other plumbing fixtures, but you can make a few simple emergency plumbing repairs yourself. If you have an overflowing toilet, first use the shut off valve to stop water supply to the toilet. If you can't find the shut off valve, simply turn off the main water supply. Use a plunger to remove the obstruction in the toilet. For plumbing faucet repairs, unscrew the faucet, and look for damaged washers or valves inside. If these are damaged, replace them, and get a plumber to fix your leaky faucet.

 Myrtle Beach plumber in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina To avoid the need for regular home plumbing repairs, simply make sure that your drains and pipes are kept free of blockages. To avoid toilet repairs, never flush large objects down your toilet. Clean the strainer of your bathroom drain regularly to avoid the need for bathroom shower drain repairs. Regularly pour hot water down your kitchen sink to unclog any grease that may have lodged in the drain. Avoid shoving bones and other hard objects down your garbage disposal unit. Also, limit the use of over-the-counter drain cleaners to clear clogged drains. These are not only a biological hazard, but they can also cause damage to the pipes, creating more blockage problems in the future.

While there's much you can do to conduct do-it-yourself plumbing repairs in your home, it's best not to attempt these unless you have at least basic DIY skills. There is no substitute for a professional plumbing repair service when it comes to home plumbing repairs. Myrtle Beach home owners trust our plumbing contractor matching service to connect them with reputed plumber repair services. The system is easy to use and quick to work, connecting you with a professional plumber within minutes.

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